I need a part made

Joe

You should really read an entire thread before responding, it keeps your foot out of your mouth.

Alternately "copy and paste as a quote" what you're replying to so those of us who have read the entire thread have the context of what your referring to.

Your quick response looked to me like you were disrespecting RT3360, that may not have been your intention but it was your result and sometimes you're judged on your results not your intentions.

If the original part broke, and several of them have broken, then the part is obviously designed wrong from the factory, so it would behoove the OP to design something bigger, better, stronger.

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I have heard this logic before and it seems sound when it comes out of your mouth but completely neglects age and economics. If the part originally lasted for 20 years before it broke is it really a good idea to over engineer a new one so the new one lasts 30 years? I think not, A decent part at the lowest possible price that will last 20 years, like the original, is my preferred solution. I have better places to spend my hard earned money than a super-engineered dust cover.

The problem here is not that the original part broke it is that I can't buy a replacement. If Sears sold this plastic part for $20 I would not come here to commission a better engineered copy - I would just buy a replacement from them every 20 years.

JayArr said:

Joe

You should really read an entire thread before responding, it keeps your foot out of your mouth.

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My skin is thicker than that. The OP stated that he glued the original part together, and I suggested he send THAT PART to someone who can scan it, and design something better to replace it.

Alternately "copy and paste as a quote" what you're replying to so those of us who have read the entire thread have the context of what your referring to.

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Noted.

Your quick response looked to me like you were disrespecting RT3360, that may not have been your intention but it was your result and sometimes you're judged on your results not your intentions.

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Some people LOOK for reasons to be offended. There was no disrespect in advising him to find someone who could build a better mousetrap.

I have heard this logic before and it seems sound when it comes out of your mouth but completely neglects age and economics. If the part originally lasted for 20 years before it broke is it really a good idea to over engineer a new one so the new one lasts 30 years? I think not, A decent part at the lowest possible price that will last 20 years, like the original, is my preferred solution. I have better places to spend my hard earned money than a super-engineered dust cover.

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Really? The price of one single plastic 3D printed part would change so dramatically, if it were printed 1/8" thicker? I don't think adding 1/8" of thickness to a part, or printing it out of a tougher material qualifies as "over-engineering." Did it break because of it's AGE, or because of an IMPACT? A brand new 3D printed part that is printed on the same WEAK design as the original part will also break, and it won't take 20 years for that to happen.

Quite frankly, a simple square or round steel tube with two TIG welded tabs and an end plate with a hole would work. There is no need to follow the contours and facets of the original design. it is only a protective cover. It is not air tight or water tight, and no amount of CAD designing of a new cap will increase the value or the utility of the old tool. It just needs something that serves as a COVER.

The problem here is not that the original part broke it is that I can't buy a replacement. If Sears sold this plastic part for $20 I would not come here to commission a better engineered copy - I would just buy a replacement from them every 20 years.

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A soup can and some duct tape would accomplish the same goal.

Joe

Joe

I am the OP

If you read the whole thread you'd know that.

The pencil story is a good one but not true.

It's obvious you and I have different opinions, luckily there's a solution for that that avoids flame wars that disrupt the general tranquility of the forum

If you hover your mouse over my avatar (the big purple J) a box will pop up. In the top right corner are three dots. If you click on the three dots a smaller box will pop up that says "ignore"

Once you "ignore" me you won't see my posts anymore.

I don't want to argue with you anymore so I suggest that you ignore me. I'll do the same and ignore you and we will stay out of each others threads.

It's sort of the forums answer of "agree to disagree"

JayArr

BTW - Congratulations, you've been here for 7 posts and someone already ignored you, that has to be some kind of record.

JayArr said:

Joe

I am the OP

If you read the whole thread you'd know that.

The pencil story is a good one but not true.

It's obvious you and I have different opinions, luckily there's a solution for that that avoids flame wars that disrupt the general tranquility of the forum

If you hover your mouse over my avatar (the big purple J) a box will pop up. In the top right corner are three dots. If you click on the three dots a smaller box will pop up that says "ignore"

Once you "ignore" me you won't see my posts anymore.

I don't want to argue with you anymore so I suggest that you ignore me. I'll do the same and ignore you and we will stay out of each others threads.

It's sort of the forums answer of "agree to disagree"

JayArr

BTW - Congratulations, you've been here for 7 posts and someone already ignored you, that has to be some kind of record.

Click to expand...

"Argue"? I thought we were having a civil conversation about my single response to a post. You accused me of "dissin'" someone (I haven't heard THAT term since the 70s ), and I politely responded to inform you of the fact that my response was to the original post, and not to any previous responses.

Read the entire thread? WHY? Some threads are 25 to 30 pages long in these forums! Oh, I see. You believe that I need your permission to respond to the original post, and when I respond, I have to make sure that someone has not already responded with the same answer, and I have to make sure that YOU deem my answer to be worthy. I get it.

The problem is not that I responded to the original post. The problem is that you concluded that my reply was to the last REPLY, rather than to the original post. If the thread title is, "Should I buy a 1964 V.W. Bug?" and 20 pages into the thread, the topic morphs into the reply, "I think pit bulls are the best choice for a good dog!" and I then post a reply with, "No. Look for something much better" ... have I told the OP to choose something other than a PIT BULL? Or have I told the OP to choose something other than a 1964 V.W. Bug?

Go ahead. Stick your fingers into your ears and yell, "La La La La La!" I do not live and breathe based on whether your opinion matters.

Joe

I picked up the parts from my friend today. This time I decided to check some dimensions against the original part before shipping. Unless I find something drastic, they should be in the mail tomorrow. Overall in side by side views, they look to be pretty good.

Height slightly more (allowing for additional interior rib height).

Tabs are the right height

Width looks good.

Large hole is slightly smaller, but hope it’s okay without trimming.

Tab width and location looks about right. Hoping mounting hole is about right too.

So unless I find something drastic, they should ship tomorrow.