[JayArr]

Hi All

I was directed here from the woodworking forum and it was suggested I see if anyone wants a project.

I want a plastic piece made for a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw. You can see a picture of it attached. It's about 3.5" x 3.5" x 1.25" tall.

It was made of thin, brittle plastic and it broke on almost every saw I've ever seen. I was lucky enough to get this sample off a saw, it was already cracked and broke apart as I was removing it but I saved all the pieces and glued it back together.

Since it's symmetrical I'm hoping that one half can be scanned and then mirrored in the software to create a full, unblemished, image. I'd like at least three made, I could poll over at Woodworker Talk to see how many more could be required. The maker could then sell them on eBay or etsy etc.

I'd like the new ones to be made of a thicker more durable plastic, they will get a lot of vibration since they are on the side of a saw motor. I'm willing to mail my sample to someone who wants the gig.

If this is the wrong forum I hope that the mods will move it to the correct one.

JayArr

 

[difalkner]

Welcome to the forum, Jay! Hopefully someone will chime in soon to assist.

 

[John Smith_inFL]

Jay - welcome as well.
Disclaimer: I know squat about 3D and CNC stuff. (But, I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express 5 years ago).
I was thinking. After the 3D printed prototype is made, could it be mass produced with a casting urethane resin ??
I don't know the statistics, but, it seems items that are cast can be reproduced quicker and more economical than individually printed parts (???).
(I do a lot of casting with plastics, that's why I ask).

Edit #2.
Also, I'm curious as to the thickness it is now, and what thickness you think it should be. If you can't get the 3D copy made, and you say you have all the pieces glued back together, a craftsman that works with projects like this could make the prototype thicker with special modeling clay to basically make a new-and-improved version "by hand" for the pattern for molding and reproducing it in quantity. (just food for thought).
And - could you pull a sample photo from somewhere that shows how this part is mounted to the saw ??

 

[John Carlisle]

Hi All

I was directed here from the woodworking forum and it was suggested I see if anyone wants a project.

I want a plastic piece made for a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw. You can see a picture of it attached. It's about 3.5" x 3.5" x 1.25" tall.

It was made of thin, brittle plastic and it broke on almost every saw I've ever seen. I was lucky enough to get this sample off a saw, it was already cracked and broke apart as I was removing it but I saved all the pieces and glued it back together.

Since it's symmetrical I'm hoping that one half can be scanned and then mirrored in the software to create a full, unblemished, image. I'd like at least three made, I could poll over at Woodworker Talk to see how many more could be required. The maker could then sell them on eBay or etsy etc.

I'd like the new ones to be made of a thicker more durable plastic, they will get a lot of vibration since they are on the side of a saw motor. I'm willing to mail my sample to someone who wants the gig.

If this is the wrong forum I hope that the mods will move it to the correct one.

JayArr

View attachment 149

Hi Jay ..
I may been able to do a 3D print for that piece. Can you tell me the current thickness and what thickness you may want? Scanning is probably not the way to get it into the model software. It looks simple enough to just model up from scratch. Would it be possible to take a few more photos, side view,back view etc.?

 

[JayArr]

Hi John Smith

I've worked with casting as well but only at a hobbyist level, Smooth-Cast was the product name. It's a lot of work, the chemicals can be expensive and they have a shelf life and the result can be less than perfect. I like the idea of having a file on a computer as opposed to a cast on a shelf, the casts wear out but the file never will. It also seems that although the printer may take a while it's pretty much unsupervised. A maker can tell it to make a part and go to bed and in the morning there are finished parts waiting at the machines. I think that's terribly efficient. I thought this was the kind of small gig that a maker could use to fill in gaps when his printer isn't doing anything else. It's also not too critical so a maker just starting out could practice with it and still make some $$.

If I wasn't so close to retirement I'd buy a printer for my business. being able to fabricate parts would go hand in hand with repairing electronics, we're always glueing plastic back together and fabricating small parts.


Hi John Carlisle

The current thickness is 1/16" which would be totally fine if the plastic didn't crack and fall apart. It's just a cover, it takes no load or stress other than vibrating with the motor as the saw cuts. It's purpose is simply to cover a rotating part so the operator doesn't accidentally hurt themselves by touching it.

Maybe the problem isn't the thickness, maybe the quality of plastic in the 70s and 80s just wasn't good enough to hold up. If the material was stronger, then I think 1/16" would be fine, if the material stays the same strength, then I think it should be 1/8" get the idea?

I'll take some pictures today with a ruler and some measurements as well as how it mounts on the saw.

 

[Oscar56]

This piece is better suited to be modeled in CAD so I'll stay out of it. Only slightly familiar with Fusion360. But this should be relatively easy to do.

My comment is have you thought of getting a cheap printer as a hobby. I just got mine about 8 months ago and its been running almost non-stop. I has been a total blast making completely useless trinkets. Occasionally, you can even use it to make useful things.

 

[JayArr]

Hi Oscar

I've thought about it, and I've looked at a few, but I've already got woodworking, electronics and auto mechanics as hobbies and I don't have time or space right now for a 3d printer. Maybe when I'm done rebuilding my transmission in the Envoy and swapped engines in the Caddy, built all new kitchen and bathroom cabinets for the new house and caught up at work I could consider it but that will take the next year or two. I'm already a very busy guy. LOL

 

[MadMark]

Can you get accurate dims? I can model in TinkerCAD and 3d print. Id bump the thickness up to 1/8" for strength while keeping the same ID's

 

[Oscar56]

I understand. I do woodworking, leather work, stained glass, 3d modeling, 3d animations, Indian flute making, whip making and learning digital design, photography and now 3d printing.

I took an early retirement so now have plenty of time to procrastinate on all them.

 

[John Carlisle]

Hi John Smith

I've worked with casting as well but only at a hobbyist level, Smooth-Cast was the product name. It's a lot of work, the chemicals can be expensive and they have a shelf life and the result can be less than perfect. I like the idea of having a file on a computer as opposed to a cast on a shelf, the casts wear out but the file never will. It also seems that although the printer may take a while it's pretty much unsupervised. A maker can tell it to make a part and go to bed and in the morning there are finished parts waiting at the machines. I think that's terribly efficient. I thought this was the kind of small gig that a maker could use to fill in gaps when his printer isn't doing anything else. It's also not too critical so a maker just starting out could practice with it and still make some $$.

If I wasn't so close to retirement I'd buy a printer for my business. being able to fabricate parts would go hand in hand with repairing electronics, we're always glueing plastic back together and fabricating small parts.


Hi John Carlisle

The current thickness is 1/16" which would be totally fine if the plastic didn't crack and fall apart. It's just a cover, it takes no load or stress other than vibrating with the motor as the saw cuts. It's purpose is simply to cover a rotating part so the operator doesn't accidentally hurt themselves by touching it.

Maybe the problem isn't the thickness, maybe the quality of plastic in the 70s and 80s just wasn't good enough to hold up. If the material was stronger, then I think 1/16" would be fine, if the material stays the same strength, then I think it should be 1/8" get the idea?

I'll take some pictures today with a ruler and some measurements as well as how it mounts on the saw.

Thanks, looking forward to the pictures.
JC

 

[JayArr]

OK, Pictures!, A lot of them.

 

[JayArr]

More

 

[JayArr]

more

 

[JayArr]

more

 

[JayArr]

more

 

[JayArr]

Looking at them now that they are posted I realize I need a class in photography.

If there is a dimension you can't see LMK.

 

[John Carlisle]

Let me review them and get back with you.

 

[MT Stringer]

Looking at them now that they are posted I realize I need a class in photography.

If there is a dimension you can't see LMK.

Don't worry about it, bud. Black, or white items are hard to photograph.

 

[MT Stringer]

Let me review them and get back with you.

Did you get a replacement in the works? I just saw this post. I think whoever models the replacement needs to have the original piece in hand. 3D printing is done in metric values (mm). Not sure I would be the guy, but it might be a good challenge, and learning experience.

 

[Rincewind]

...3D printing is done in metric values (mm)...

I'm sure you should be able to change most (if not all) software/parameters to Inches (Imperial)...i'm fine with both as i was one of the first kids to be taught the Metric system back in the 70's, but i can see that it might be a problem for some across the pond.