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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to try to make an articulated model of some sort so trying/experimenting on modeling some ball and socket models to learn what tolerances should be used.

Which design do you guys use or like?
 

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You have different levels of squish and the basic resolution is around 0.005". Squish varies with several factors, pla color, extrusion & build plate temp, nozzle dia, feed rate, etc. Squish will generally make holes 0.005"-0.015" too small, and objects about the same too big. Pick your material, get out your calipers, print & measure -- when COLD. PLA has a significant thermal expansion rate. Only measure dimensions at your expected operating temperature. I have designs that print & fit perfectly with a given filament only to not fit when printed in different brand/color.
Depending on your source, you can tweak it in say, TinkerCAD, or in your slicer. I've expanded a part in the slicer by 5% rather than go back to square 1, and stretch it in TinkerCAD, go and re-export, and then slice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the response. I am making my patterns from scratch so was seeing how other folks made theirs.

I am also finding it a challenge with a common lexicon and procedural workflow. I do not use CAD for my models. I use art focused 3d modeling tools like Blender, Zbrush, 3dCoat as examples. The workflow is completely different than CAD.

I am finding 2% difference in size between ball and socket allows for the movement I was looking for. I don't like measuring much so a lot of Kentucky windage being used.

This is my second experimental print for ball and socket sections you can daisy chain. They are loose enough you can press together. My first experiment was a print in place example but it took forever to print.

Still playing around to see what works best for me.

Wood Art Metal Hardwood Carmine
 

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Try TinkerCAD. it's geometrical and easy to use -- it's designed for kids, STEM students. It even has LEGO mode!
The programs you're using are more for curved, natural, shapes more than mechanical geometric figures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. I'm actually a little familiar with CAD. I just don't like it.

I've been 3d modeling with art software going onto a decade and my brain is now wired differently.

lol. I am actually aiming for natural organic shapes but have to reach into my very ancient memory on how the mechanical stuff works. Haven't used any of that stuff in many decades.

This is a quick model concept on what I want to do to see how things would fit together.

Hand Arm Jaw Gesture Thumb
 

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Get the geometry working right and then wrap it with whatever skin you want. TinkerCAD imports and exports, as does my slicer. So I can take two completely independent shapes, one geometric and the other organic, for melding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Another quick and dirty concept session for the leg joints. One of the leg joints is in the printer now for a test print. I want to make sure this design works before continuing the design iteration for the final model. Right now I am leaning towards a large print like my mech.

Hand Food Human body Gesture Finger
 

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Kentucky windage is how you shoot with a bent barrel. If it throws a little high & right, you aim a little low and left. A seat of the pants empirical solution -- Tweak it until it works.
Was it not Oscar Wilde that said "I speak English, but understand American."
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Nope, sorry, this went straight over my British head lol...can someone kindly translate 😊
lol. MadMark is on the money.

I was referring to one of the biggest differences between CAD and art focused 3d modeling software. You definitely can be precise and use measurements using the art software...or you can do it my way and just slap stuff down and push and pull (digital sculpting) until it looks good to my eye. No measuring anything. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The test was a failure and success.

Failure: The joint does not have at least a 45 degree movement that I wanted and I broke one of the socket walls when I was removing the supports.

Success: I figured out what I need to do for the next iteration. Increase the socket wall thickness and allow more clearance for better articulation.

Back to the drawing board for the next iteration of the design.

Microphone Drinkware Wood Material property Audio equipment
 
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